Selamat, Sabah - Borneo ( Part-1)

  

A birding trip to Borneo was just what I wanted after my trip to Kenya in September, 2024. To my good luck, one of my birding friends gave me the contact of Arka Sarka from Kolkata who conducts birding tours to South -East Asian countries. I connected with him immediately and joined his upcoming trip to Borneo.  A 10-day trip was scheduled from July 26 to August 4, 2025 from Kota Kinabalu to Sandakan covering Highlands and Rainforests of Sabah.  A month before the trip, one spot got vacant in the group of six and after a little convincing Mrs Sarabjeet Kaur-- my septuagenrian birding friend from Chandigarh-- agreed to come along. Absolutely excited, on July 24, at 11pm we boarded the Malaysian Airlines flight from Delhi to Kuala Lumpur. On July 25,  at 7 am we took the connecting flight from Kuala Lumpur to Kota Kinabalu. After three hours, we landed at Kota Kinabalu airport. Arka was at the Airport, and we also met another group member from Karnataka, Rajashekar (a retd banker from Karnataka) , who was also in the same flight. 

We stayed at Hotel No. 5, which was not far from the airport. Four of our group members had arrived and two others , Latha Prabhakaran ( a Lawyer from Kerala )  and Dev Paul ( from TN who left corporate life for pursuing his passion for travelling ) were expected to reach late in the night. There wasn't much planned for the day, so three of us, Sarbjeet madam, Rajashekar and myself decided to explore the city and the sea front and shop for some souvenirs. 

I did not know much about the place Sabah before this trip. Sabah, is a state of Malaysia, situated in North East Borneo and is a well known bio- diversity hotspot and one of the best destinations for birding and bird photography in SE Asia. Sabah has land borders with Malaysian state of Sarawak. Sabah, located in the Malaysian side of Borneo has over 600 species of birds due to its diverse habitats, from lowland rainforests (Kinabatangan River, Danum Valley) to misty mountains ( Kinabalu Park, Trusmadi) and wetlands, perfect for spotting endemic Bornean treasures. The itinerary of Arka Sarkar was exhaustive with possible sighting of many endemics of Sabah and Borneo. 

July 26, (Day 1) we started early from Hotel No 5 at 5.30 am in a 10 seater van. Our local guide for the trip Mirwan Mustafa joined us in his Hilux vehicle. It was still dark and the weather was little muggy. Our first destination for birding was Gunang Alab and then Trusmadi. Before heading to our destination, we stopped at a petrol pump for coffee and Arka shopped for packets of biscuits and snacks for the trip. After travelling for one and half hours, by 07.10 am we reached Gunang Alab at Taman Banjaran Crocker Range Biosphere Reserve. We rushed to the hide which was a 5 minute steep walk through the forest to see the Borneo endemics Crimson -headed Partridge and Red - breasted partridge. The forest floor was uneven and covered with fallen leaves and crisscrossed with the protruding roots of the trees. There was a green mesh fence which divided the birds from the birders with space to place our lens. We excitedly clicked the birds from a very close range. After 30 mins, we left the hide and got back to our vehicle to have our packed breakfast.  We walked around the National Park trying to spot some birds and White- faced Ashy Drongo, Indigo Flycatcher, Golden-naped Barbet were the only birds which gave us good shots. The vegetation on both sides of the road had tall trees with thick green canopy and getting any good shots of birds seemed slim. Arka had rekindled my hope when he assured that many of the endemics will be visible at the hides.  ( Below : Red-breasted Partridge , Crimson Partridge , Indigo Flycatcher , White-faced Ashy Drongo )

En route to Gunang Alab Restaurant & Motel, we stopped briefly on the road to take some shots of Bornean Shortwing and Snowy-browed Flycatcher foraging on the edge of thick forest. There was already a group of Japanese birders with large cameras on tripods, excitedly taking shots of the birds. After a short drive of 30 minutes, we stopped at Tambunan, known for producing the world largest flower Rafflesia, something I vaguely remembered from my school science books. There is a Rafflesia Information Centre, nestled within the Cocker Range Biosphere Reserve dedicated to the consevation and education on the rafflesia species, particularly Rafflesia pricei. Rafflesia or Stinking corpse lily is a parasitic flowering plant with enormous flowers, with the buds rising from the ground or directly from the stems of the host plant. There are 41 species from this genus and all of them are found in Southeast Asia. We spent an hour seeing four blooms of Rafflesia pricei, guarded by a wire mesh from predators. (Below, pictures of Rafflesia )

              

Our afternoon session was at Penampang, after lunch we moved upstairs to the bird hide which was a long verandah type balcony facing the valley side of the forest. We looked for space between the already set tripods of other birders hoping to catch some close shots of endemics on the trees across the balcony. In the next three hours, we got close shots of some 18 bird species including some endemics like Bornean Treepie, Bornean Bulbul and Little Pied Flycatcher, Chestnut Crested Yuhina, etc. We stayed the night at Tambunan at a Forest Rest house. 

Bulwer's Pheasant

Crested Partridge ( female)

Crested Partridge ( male)

On July 27 (Day-2) morning by 5.30 am, we headed to the Trusmadi hides. Our guide wanted us to reach early to get a better place at the Bird Hides, as we had to spend the whole day at Trusmadi Hide, till 3.30 pm. We reached Mount Trusmadi and walked down a narrow track in the forest for 5 minutes towards Hide-2. The hide was dark and bustling with birders with tripods/ cameras lens facing the forest. All I could see were flocks of birds foraging in the open forest grounds covered with fallen logs. The morning light was very poor to take any shots. In an hour, the sun was bright and I could see several Crested Partridges. I saw a bird with a white big fluffy plume walk from the right, took a few steps, turned and went into another direction.  For a moment, I thought it was my imagination, but the ghost looking bird is the Bulwer’s Pheasant, endemic of Borneo. 

At the hide, we were served with tea and simple snacks and breakfast. We sighted five species before moving uphill to Hide-1 which had more bird sightings . To my dismay, the light at foraging area for the birds was extremely poor as the canopy of trees blocked the sunlight. A flock of Crested Partridges were foraging on the ground, very close to the edge of our hide but it was very challenging to get any good shots in the poor light. I managed some good shots of a pair of Bulwer's pheasant foraging on the edge of the hide towards the forest.  By 2:45pm, we had sighted 30 species including several endemics, giving a sense of happiness. ( Below, pictures from hide and group photo outside the hide)

As the sunset was early, we left the hide by 4 pm moving for our next  destination, the famous Kinabalu National Park (KNP) with Mount Kinabalu in the background. The drive all through had some spectacular views of lush green forests. We stayed at Strawberry Garden Hotel, a small hill top property with an awesome view of valley. It was a little cold there and it felt good to get away from the heat of plains. There was a good hotel restaurant and we all were famished and enjoyed some good continental and malaysian food. 

On July 28 (Day 3) at KNP, we started by 6 am hoping to sight maximum Borneo endemics. Our guide Mirwan had mentioned that nearly 62 endemics of Sabah can be sighted here and in the next two days of our birding we were hoping to see some of the Borneo bird endemics. Interestingly, the entry gate of KNP mentions that it is a UNESCO World Heritage Park. The 4,095 mt high Mount Kinabalu, is the highest peak between the Himalayas and the New Guinea and a popular climbing destination. There were few cottages at the entrance of park for the visitors coming to enjoy the activities at KNP.  Visitors come to the park for its hiking trails, bird watching and immense biodiversity of nearly 4,500 species of flora and fauna. 

As we entered into the park, the morning mist made the surroundings look surreal, the crisp air that hit my face, felt pure and divine and had a lingering sweet smell of pine. The beautiful soft calls of birds could be heard from all corners of the park. Our first stop was for the Bornean Green Magpie and Whiteheads's Broadbill,  close to the cottages. And to our luck, we heard the call of Whitehead's Broadbill from the canopy of tall trees and with some serious manoeuvring, we could get some good shots of the beautiful borneo endemic, while Bornean Green Magpie obliged us with eye level shots. Arka shared a hilarious pic of the group while trying to get some shots of the White-head's Broadbill. ( Below : Bornean Green Magpie, Whitehead's Broadbill and pic of the group all down with cameras on the Broadbill )

Over the next 2 hours we sighted 14 bird species, including eight Borneo endemics. Sunda Laughing Thrush is an endangered endemic species which was seen foraging on the edge of the thick forest, close to the road. We slowly moved on the Kinabalu-Kiau view trail and sighted 12 bird species which two endemics, including the White-headed Trogon, another beauty from this place. The weather was playing hide-and-seek, so birding was not very rewarding, with so many calls and no sighting. We took beautiful group shots at the Kunadsang War memorial with the snowcapped Mount Kinabalu in the background. (Below : Sunda Laughing Thrush, Group pic with Mont Kinabalu , White-headed Trogon )

White-headed Trogon

 

In the afternoon,  it poured heavily as is typical in the equatorial ecosystem leaving no possibility for birding. Before the end of the day, there was good sunlight for an hour, and all that we could get were some clear shots of  Black-sided Flower pecker. 

Black-sided Flower pecker

Back at the hotel, we had a sumptuous dinner reminiscing the day and hoping to have another good session next day.

The next day (Day 4), we started by 5.45 am entering the cool environs of the park. Mirwan took us directly to the end of the park near the Timohon gate where the hiking trials to Mount Kinabalu began. There were so many trekkers, young and old,   including families at the gates, either returning from the hike to   Mount Kinabalu  or starting the hike. It was an amazing sight to see so many enthusiastic hikers, mostly foreigners.

Timohon gate for Hiking 

At this location, we could sight 14 bird species, including the Fruit Hunter,  Chestnut-crested Yuhina and Mountain Black-eye.  Mirwan took us to the hotspots near the stream to look for the elusive endemic Bornean Forktail. After breakfast, our guide decided to take us on a trek along the stream which runs through the forest, which is the known habitat of the Forktail. We walked for an hour on the trekking trials but did not get to see any birds. The Sun was hot and sweltering and I realised that it was more of a conditioning trek to prepare us for the next day's tough trek to Telupid hide, through the deep forest. We returned to the hotel to check out by 12 noon and after a quick lunch went back to the park. Again, it started raining heavily when we entered the park making it impossible to get out of the vehicle.  Disappointed, we had to end our birding session and we started for our next destination to Telupid which was a two hour drive from there. It was nearly 7 pm and dark by the time we reached the IPL Telupid Guesthouse, our stay for the next two days.

Our morning at Telupid (Day 5) started by 5.50 am with a single target, the Bornean Peacock Pheasant. We drove for 15 mins to one location crossing large tracks of palm plantation. Near the church at Ranau we shifted into a 4x4 and were dropped at the edge of forest. From there, we trekked through a deep forest for 45 minutes, crossing a stream to reach the hide. It was not very difficult, but neither was it an easy walk in the forest to reach the hide. Because of the steep climb, Mirwaz kept checking Sarbjeet madam's heartbeat before allowing her to go further. By 8.30 am, we made it to the hide and to our good luck, the Bornean Peacock Pheasant was already feeding outside and displaying its beautiful plume. Till 11.30 am,  the Pheasant visited the hide twice giving us ample opportunity for some fabulous shots, its plume shining in the beautiful sunlight with its colours glistening like gems embedded on it.  Out of the seven species seen at the hide, White-crowned Shama is also an endangered endemic. ( Below: Pics from Telupid forest and at the hide with Mirwan)

 

 
 

                 

Bornean Peacock Pheasant

                                                                 

We started back by 12, trying some birding on the way but with the green canopy of trees and thick spread of vines, the light was very low making it impossible to get a picture. We got back by 1 pm and got in the 4x4 open jeep for off roading through the acres of palm plantation. Back in our rooms by 2.30 pm after a leisure lunch, we relaxed as the main target for today was already sighted. It started to rain very heavily for 2 hours with no scope for evening birding in the campus of our stay. However, after the rain stopped  we all headed out with our cameras to capture whatever possible before sunset. There was a huge flock of nearly 100 Pink-Breasted Pigeons around the tall trees in the campus. For nearly 30-40 mins we walked around to gainfully use the time before sunset.

The next day, (Day 6) we left  by 5 am from Telupid to the Kinabatangan hide for the Bornean Crested Fireback and Sabah Partridge. This hide had exclusive sighting of  Bornean Crested Fireback. The male Fireback was very aggressive, hitting at the wall of the hide many times. After nearly four hours at the hide with an amazing sighting of Banded Broad bill and nearly 12 bird species, we left the place. 

( Below: Banded  Broadbill, Bornean Crested Fireback, Sabah Partridge) 

We had lunch and headed for Gomatang forests,  birding on way to the famous caves. At Gomantang cave,  the strong stench of guano ( Bat poop along with bird poop) filled the air making it difficult to breathe. We still explored the vast limestone chambers filled with millions of Bats and Swiftlets. We waited outside to see the spectacular exodus of bats from the caves after sunset to feed on insects, while Dev Paul took the wooden stairs to the top of the caves for a best view, a 25 minutes steep climb.

Waiting outside the caves, we spotted Wallace’s Hawk Eagle, Oriental Pied Hornbill, Crested Serpent Eagle, Rufous-backed Dwarf Kingfisher, Bat Hawk and the spectacle of the exodus of millions of Bats with the predators snooping on them.

Inside the cave

Rufous-backed Dwarf Kingfisher

                                                         Entrance of the cave

After sunset, we crossed the Kinabatangam river in a boat and reached the Proboscis Lodge on the other side for next two days of birding in the lush green equatorial forests. For the next three days, we were transported to another world renowned for its immense biodiversity including Orangutans and Proboscis Monkeys which I will write in the part -2 of this blog. 

By the end of six days, Rajasekhar and Dibyendu Sinharay ( CA from Kolkata ) became inseparable like long lost brothers. I immensely enjoyed the company of the Arka , whose knowledge of the biodiversity of the South east Asia especially the Sunda region and the economy of these regions made lunch and dinner conversations very engaging and Mirwan, our charming guide and bird whisperer. 

( Below: Pic from Sabah airport , 4x4 vehicle at Telupid, Golden -naped Barbet )

 

With Sarbjeet Mam at Sabah